build or rebuild your stroker long block type 1 from the main bearings out
Part number:
yslb1
Your cost:
$1,000.00
Description:
To have your type 1 VW STROKER long block built from the main bearings out by us, you must supply the following (unless we're building it all new for you):
$1000 for labor only, with parts, machine work*, and any related shipping being extra. $200 MORE for labor only, if your block has 10mm head studs and 94mm cylinders (for clearancing)
I will tear it down to the bare block & inspect the block, crank journals & rods.
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll likely be replaced with new.
If the crank needs work (grinding, dowel repair, welding etc) of any kind, it will most likely get replaced. This OF COURSE depends on the work & your wallet.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam & lifters will be inspected for pits or other wear. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new, unless it is recently new to start with.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will be steam cleaned only). If they leak or are cracked or otherwise need work, you'll get new heads. This OF COURSE depends on the heads, the work & your wallet.
I'll install new pushrod tubes & seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods. If your p-rods are the wrong length or bent, you'll get new ones. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used & you'll get the left over gaskets & seals.
*Machine Work meaning:
- A clean long block. Pressure wash at a car wash or steam clean the engine before bringing it to be built. If you're going to ship it, NEVER use styrofoam packing - only paper or cardboard AND ALWAYS use boxes designed for the weight. Double boxing or crating for long blocks and double boxing for short blocks.
- A $500 deposit.
- Bring the long block, which consists of these parts either assembled or not:
- The drain plate on the bottom
- The flywheel on the back (no press plate or clutch disc)
- No pulley or pulley tin on the front
- No shrouding or tin or exhaust
- Nothing on top
- Drain the oil. Bring with no oil in it
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll likely be replaced with new.
If the crank needs work (grinding, dowel repair, welding etc) of any kind, it will most likely get replaced. This OF COURSE depends on the work & your wallet.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam & lifters will be inspected for pits or other wear. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new, unless it is recently new to start with.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will be steam cleaned only). If they leak or are cracked or otherwise need work, you'll get new heads. This OF COURSE depends on the heads, the work & your wallet.
I'll install new pushrod tubes & seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods. If your p-rods are the wrong length or bent, you'll get new ones. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used & you'll get the left over gaskets & seals.
*Machine Work meaning:
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to provide clearancing
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to drill a hole (for a helicoil for example)
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for stud clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for rod clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from manufacture of a part
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from previous machine work
We accept the following forms of payment:
