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carb kit single 38 EGAS for type 1 & 2 engines Empi

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An industry 1st, now Hot VW's writes a feature article on the install:
A synchronous 38mm (both barrels) 2-Barrel carburetor perched on an isolated center-section aluminum manifold.
Features a true Pre-Heat System and an Electric choke for easy cold weather starting.
For street or off-road
Excellent power, performance and drivability.
Kit comes with:
A vacuum port if you want to run a vac adv dist.
A new Empi EPC-38 carb, isolated-style center manifold, gauze washable air filter in a chrome housing, hardware, linkage kit, instructions & gaskets.
DOES NOT come with the manifold connection boots,clamps or gaskets, so you might want to plan on getting some of those for your particular engine application (like part# 3412 or 3229 or 3230-0).
Will fit either single port or dual port bugs, ghias, and early buses.
We recommend at least a 1600cc engine for this carb.

We recommend a pcv elbow (see pic) part# 8998 to eliminate any possible hose 'kink' of the breather hose when you connect to the supplied air filter.

factory jetting:
45 idle
145 main
170 air
F50 Emulsion tube
65 pump

On an install that Doghouse did:
We installed this on a 1776 engine we just built. We had to trim some of the intake manifold tube off (both sides) and we had to clearance under the manifold due to the 'bubble top aluminum case' used. Key words, be PATIENT when installing:
DON'T install the manifold without having first installed the carb.

The kit's manifold support brace is for use with an electric fuel pump. You will have to modify it to use it with a mechanical fuel pump. If you do that, you will also need to extend the stud for the fuel pump. Or, replace that stud with part# 938M0850, which is a long stud with an Allen head end.

In order to line up the throttle cable with the throttle control arm, the manifold must be close to the alternator. The problem is, the closer you get to the alternator, the more material you need to remove from the alternator (see pic) to allow the fuel pump arm on the carb to move to get you throttle. We clearanced some of the pump arm and some of the alternator.

We set the carb in such a position, that the air filter base would just touch our Empi fan shroud. Then we dimpled the shroud and then took off the lip from both the top and the bottom of the air filter, at the point where it would otherwise touch the fan shroud. This gave us a little more room to achieve full pump movement without any more clearancing of the alternator.

We dimpled the fan shroud for the throttle linkage to come as close to it as possible to achieve full throttle. We also clearanced some of the arm off at the barrel nut area to help achieve full throttle capability. We also elongated the throttle tube position hole in the face of the shroud to make it easier for the cable end to have a smooth transition when the thick end of the cable reaches the throttle tube.

We shortened the linkage piece that joins the heims so that when screwed together makes a strong bond and allowed us to put the heim into the first hole on the carb's plate. This allowed us full throttle with the throttle cable.

Our customers application required a 3/8" vacuum barb for his brakes, so we added that barb to the lowest part of the manifold.

Our carb's choke mechanism was off the carb when we opened the box. This was intended. To properly set the choke, there is a thin raised line on the black body, line that line up with the thin raised line found on the choke housing, then turn the black housing counter clockwise until you see the butterfly close. Tighten the 3 screws that hold the black body in place. Both lines can be seen in picture 6 of 19.

If you are not patient, this kit isn't for you.

Any carburetor, new or used, alone or in kit form, installed or not, sold on this site is sold without warranty, and is not returnable
Ships within 1-3 business days
of this item to my cart.

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