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carb kit single 44 standard kit for type 1 engines Empi Gen 3 HPMX

Part number:
47-7316
Your cost:
$313.50
Description:
http://www.youtube.com/user/EMPIHPMX


This is a single 44 HPMX Gen 3 carb kit with a chrome air cleaner, common V shaped isolated tube center manifold and linkage. Ready to bolt on with fuel line, hardware and detailed instructions.
Each carb is inspected by Empi. The float levels are checked & set. The pump jets are changed. An idle hole is then drilled in the butterfly. The carb is then tuned & tested by Empi on their engine prior to packaging.
Carb made for Empi in China.

[*]Enrichment circuit eliminated (no more blanking plate)

1. Comes with chrome steel velocity stacks.
2. Profiled throttle shafts for increased flow past the butterflies.
3. Comes with 36mm Venturies, F11 Emulsion tubes, 60 idle jets, 140 main jets & 160 air jets in the carb.
4. All parts are interchangeable with IDF's - jets, venturis, emulsion tubes, etc.
5. Flow bench tested with increased CFM over other models.
6. Dyno tested resulted in increased horse power.
7. Casting quality is excellent.
8. 40 HPMX Kit p/n is: 47-7315
9. Comes with choke block off plates installed.
10. Does NOT come with new boots or clamps. Buy boots part# 1567-22 & clamps part# cc-28.
11. This carb comes with .60 idle jets, .140 main jets, .160 airs, 30mm venturies, .350 ex pump jets, .55 accel pump jets & F-11 emulsions.

Not included but highly recommended:
*A note on an install we did (pics above):
Our block was cut .020 & I used .050 head spacers on a 1915: as a result our engine was near a stock width. When I went to install the center manifold I had to trim a small amount off of the 3-4 end of the center manifold, so it would not touch the end elbows. I added a washer to the 1-2 side of the manifold center so I didn't have to trim the 1-2 side.
The space at the base of the center manifold for the pass through bolt is larger than it needs to be. Don't let this concern you. The washer we put there applies even pressure when we tightened the manifold down.
It's conceivable that if the manifold touches the end elbows, those end elbows when tightened down, may not actually sit flat on the head due to the interference and cause a leak.
I removed the V shaped bracket from the right side of the carb (it hit the alternator near full throttle) and replaced it with a round throttle shaft washer.
I filed a small amount of the center of the manifold to allow the throttle cable an easier transition during its movement back & forth.
I added 2 washers to the right side of the linkage pivot arm to allow the throttle cable to connect easier.
I used the Bugpack boots mentioned above and heated them up with a hair dryer to make them pliable enough to slide over the elbows.
The install went fine from there.
Since the engine shown is a 1915cc, I changed the idle jets to 70's and the mains to 145's for smooth revs from idle to 5500 rpm.
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